Circuit Breaker Replacement Cost

Understanding Circuit Breaker Replacement

Circuit breakers are safety devices that automatically shut off electrical flow when a circuit becomes overloaded or experiences a short circuit. When a breaker fails or becomes outdated, replacement is essential for both safety and functionality. Understanding circuit breaker replacement cost helps you budget for this important electrical work.

Safety Warning: Circuit breaker replacement involves working inside an energized electrical panel. Even with the main breaker off, utility voltage remains present on the main lugs and bus bars. This work should only be performed by licensed electricians.

Why Circuit Breaker Replacement Costs Vary

Several factors influence the total cost of circuit breaker replacement:

1. Breaker Type

The most significant cost factor is the type of breaker needed:

2. Panel Brand and Age

Breakers must match your panel brand exactly. Older or discontinued panels present challenges:

• Common brands (Square D, Siemens, Eaton): Parts readily available, standard pricing
• Older common brands (GE, Cutler-Hammer): May cost slightly more
• Obsolete panels (Pushmatic, Bryant, ITE): Parts 2-3x more expensive when available
• Recalled panels (Federal Pacific, Zinsco): Replacement breakers should NOT be used—full panel replacement recommended

3. Service Call and Labor

Most electricians charge:

• Service call/trip fee: $75-$150
• Diagnostic fee: $75-$125 (often waived if you proceed with repair)
• Hourly rate: $50-$100/hour
• Typical time for single breaker: 30-60 minutes

4. Multiple Breaker Discount

Replacing several breakers at once reduces per-unit cost:

• Single breaker: $150-$250
• 2-3 breakers: $120-$180 each
• 4+ breakers: $80-$150 each

Types of Circuit Breakers Explained

Standard Single-Pole Breakers

Cost: $5-$15 (parts) | $120-$220 (installed)

Single-pole breakers protect 120V circuits—the standard for outlets, lights, and small appliances. They occupy one slot in your panel and connect to one hot wire.

Common ratings: 15 amp (for 14-gauge wire) or 20 amp (for 12-gauge wire)

Use for: General outlets, lighting, small appliances

Standard Double-Pole Breakers

Cost: $15-$80 (parts) | $150-$330 (installed)

Double-pole breakers protect 240V circuits for high-power appliances. They occupy two panel slots and connect to two hot wires.

Common ratings:

• 30 amp: Electric dryers, small water heaters
• 40 amp: Electric ranges, large water heaters
• 50 amp: Electric ranges, EV chargers
• 60-100 amp: Subpanels, large equipment

GFCI Breakers (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter)

Cost: $30-$60 (parts) | $200-$350 (installed)

GFCI breakers detect small current imbalances (as low as 5 milliamps) that indicate current is flowing through an unintended path—like a person. They trip in milliseconds to prevent electrocution.

Required by code for:

• Bathrooms
• Kitchens (counter outlets)
• Garages
• Outdoors
• Basements (unfinished)
• Laundry areas
• Near pools and spas

GFCI breaker vs GFCI outlet: A GFCI breaker protects the entire circuit from the panel. A GFCI outlet protects only outlets downstream from that point. Breakers are more expensive but provide whole-circuit protection.

AFCI Breakers (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter)

Cost: $40-$80 (parts) | $220-$380 (installed)

AFCI breakers detect dangerous electrical arcing—sparking that occurs when wires are damaged, connections are loose, or insulation has failed. Arcing is a leading cause of electrical fires.

Required by code for:

• Bedrooms
• Living rooms
• Family rooms
• Dining rooms
• Hallways
• Closets
• Essentially all living spaces (in new construction)

Dual Function AFCI/GFCI Breakers

Cost: $50-$100 (parts) | $250-$400 (installed)

Dual function breakers combine both GFCI and AFCI protection in one device. These are increasingly required by modern electrical codes and simplify protection for areas needing both.

Best for: Kitchen circuits, bathroom circuits in bedrooms, any area requiring both protections

Main Breakers

Cost: $150-$400 (parts) | $500-$2,000 (installed)

The main breaker controls power to your entire panel. It's typically rated at 100, 150, or 200 amps matching your service size. Main breaker replacement is more complex because it requires temporarily disconnecting utility power.

Main breaker replacement is needed when:

• Breaker trips without overload
• Physical damage visible
• Breaker won't reset
• Panel upgrade is needed

When to Replace Circuit Breakers

Immediate Replacement Needed

• Won't reset: Stays in tripped or middle position
• Visible damage: Cracks, melting, burn marks
• Hot to touch: Indicates internal failure
• Burning smell: Sign of overheating
• Buzzing/crackling: Loose connections or arcing
• Trips with no load: Internal failure

Replace Soon

• Frequent tripping: Under normal loads
• Age over 25 years: Increased failure risk
• Outdated protection: Upgrade to GFCI/AFCI where required
• Federal Pacific/Zinsco brands: Known safety hazards

Repair May Be Option

• Occasional tripping: During actual overloads (working correctly)
• GFCI won't reset: May need replacement or wiring check
• Rust on panel: Address moisture source, evaluate breakers

Main Breaker Replacement Details

Main breaker replacement is more involved than standard breaker changes:

Why Main Breakers Fail

• Repeated tripping from overloads
• Lightning strikes or power surges
• Age-related wear (25+ years)
• Manufacturing defects
• Overheating from loose connections

Main Breaker Replacement Process

1. Utility disconnection (or meter pull if permitted)
2. Panel de-energization verified
3. Main breaker removal (wires marked and disconnected)
4. New breaker installation (torqued to specifications)
5. Utility reconnection
6. Testing and verification

Cost Factors for Main Breakers

Labor Cost Breakdown

Understanding electrician pricing helps evaluate quotes:

Typical Fee Structure

Time Estimates by Job

Breaker Compatibility Guide

Using the wrong breaker is dangerous. Breakers must exactly match your panel:

Major Panel Brands and Compatible Breakers

Never use:

• Universal or off-brand breakers claiming compatibility
• Breakers from different manufacturers
• Breakers from different product lines within same brand

Obsolete Panels

Older panels may have limited breaker availability:

• Pushmatic: Limited aftermarket sources, expensive
• Bryant: Some parts still available
• ITE: Merged with Siemens, some compatibility
• Bulldog: Limited availability

If breakers for your panel are hard to find or very expensive, consider panel replacement.

Safety Information

Why DIY Breaker Replacement Is Dangerous

Even with the main breaker off, the utility lines entering your panel remain energized at full voltage. The main lugs (where utility wires connect) carry 240V and can deliver hundreds of amps—enough to kill instantly.

Specific dangers include:

• Accidental contact with main lugs: Always energized
• Arc flash: Can occur if tools contact bus bars
• Improper breaker seating: May cause arcing or fire
• Wrong breaker type: Can cause fires
• Working without verification: Assuming power is off

When to Call an Electrician Immediately

• Burning smell from panel or outlets
• Sparks when plugging in devices
• Flickering lights throughout house
• Breakers hot to touch
• Scorch marks in or around panel
• Any signs of fire or smoke

How to Save on Circuit Breaker Replacement

Bundle Multiple Repairs

• Replace several aging breakers at once
• Upgrade to GFCI/AFCI during other electrical work
• Combine with outlet or switch replacements

Get Multiple Quotes

• Obtain 2-3 quotes for any electrical work
• Compare service call fees and hourly rates
• Ask about parts markup policies

Avoid Emergency Calls

• Address minor issues before they become urgent
• Schedule during regular business hours
• Respond to warning signs early

Ask About Diagnostic Fee Policies

Many electricians waive diagnostic fees if you proceed with the repair.

Hiring an Electrician

What to Look For

• Valid state electrical license
• Liability and workers comp insurance
• Experience with your panel brand
• Clear pricing before work begins
• Willingness to explain the problem

Questions to Ask

• What's your service call fee?
• Is the diagnostic fee separate?
• Can you show me the problem?
• Is the breaker under warranty?
• Do you guarantee your work?

Red Flags

• Won't show license when asked
• Pressures for immediate decision
• Cash-only payment demanded
• Suggests skipping permit for panel work
• Much cheaper than other quotes

Conclusion

Circuit breaker replacement cost ranges from $120 for a standard single-pole breaker to $2,000 for a main breaker, with most homeowners paying $150-$350 for typical breaker replacements. While the parts are relatively inexpensive, the labor cost reflects the skill and safety precautions required for working in energized electrical panels.

Don't delay replacing faulty breakers—they're your home's primary protection against electrical fires and shock hazards. The cost of a service call is minimal compared to the potential consequences of a failed breaker. Always hire a licensed electrician who can ensure the right breaker is installed correctly and safely.